Monday, January 25, 2016
i hate winter. becuz i get cobwebs all over me. becuz i go thru my mountain of books (deciding what to keep and what to sell and what to toss - well, never to toss - just what to donate) and then i don't open but one or two books and i start researching and before i know it, an hour or two has passed becuz i need to look at the author, and did the author write any other books, and oh, look - cool illustrations - i wonder who the illustrator was - and if there is none listed i have to research and look to see what others have noted about the book, all to find the name of that elusive illustrator, and then i note that there were several editions, and which one do i have and who is the company that printed the book, and what else did they print, and when did they start, and who started that company, and is the author still alive and if not, when did s/he die and where and of what and ...
Wednesday, November 12, 2014
tc sky cams
http://www.9and10news.com/category/221406/skycams
http://www.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/findweather/getForecast?query=michigan
http://www.wxnation.com/traversecity/webcams/
http://woodtv.com/weather/webcams/
http://weather.weatherbug.com/MI/Traverse%20City-weather/weather-cams/local-cams.html
http://www.the-webcam-network.com/countries/Michigan-USA/c.html
http://www.the-webcam-network.com/Michigan-USA/Grawn/3034293.html
http://www.wunderground.com/webcams/AtticusTysen/1/show.html
http://www.earthcam.com/usa/michigan/traversecity/?cam=traversebay
https://www.nmc.edu/maritime/about/webcam.html
http://search.earthcam.com/search/adv_search.php?lang=en&redirect=yes&title=&restrict=1&url=&cat[]=TRA&city=&zip=&state[]=MI
http://traversebaylive.com/
http://www.michigansnowcams.com/
http://www.northernexpress.com/michigan/article-3203-the-big-boom-at-chums-corners.html
Sunday, March 31, 2013
WB 1936 May - Aug
 Volume 1, Issue #8(C908): May 1936 Page Count: 16 Notes: Issued with a (22x30)blue-line transfer sheet TABLE OF CONTENTS
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Volume 1, Issue #9(C909): June 1936 Page Count: 8 Notes: Issued with a (22x30)blue-line transfer sheet, issue is actually 1- 10 1/2 x 15 1/2 sheet folded in 4ths TABLE OF CONTENTS
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Volume 1, Issue #10(C910): July 1936 Page Count: 8 Notes: Issued with a (22x30)blue-line transfer sheet, issue is actually 1- 10 1/2 x 15 1/2 sheet folded in 4ths TABLE OF CONTENTS
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 Volume 1, Issue #11(C911): August 1936 Page Count: 8 Notes: Issued with a (22x35)blue-line transfer sheet, issue is actually 1- 10 1/2 x 15 1/2 sheet folded in 4ths TABLE OF CONTENTS
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Tuesday, January 17, 2012
Friday, January 6, 2012
Wednesday, December 14, 2011
cleaning silver - my notes
Tarnish is caused by hydrogen sulfide and sulphur dioxide
Tarnish causing accelerants:
- fabrics containing wool or felt
- foods containing citrus, eggs, mayonaise (has eggs as an ingredient), or onions
- high humidity levels
- latex gloves
- oil on fingers
- paints containing oil (latex paint is ok-ish, just make sure the item is painted (and dried) at least 4 months prior to silver storage)
- petroleum based storage items, including items such as carpet padding
- rubber bands
cleaning / polishing for both silver and silver-plate
NOTE: never over clean or over polish silver-plate - else you risk "cleaning" silver-plate down to bare metal, at which point it will have to be restored by a restoration specialist
Cleaning:
- never wash any silver article in the dishwasher
- never wash any silver article with dish soap containing lemon
- before washing silver remove loose dust (can scratch silver) with a soft clean cotton cloth
- hand-wash (remember: never dishwasher) silver with warm water and a gentle lemon-free, phosphate-free dish soap, such as Dawn
- avoid contact with other metals that can scratch such as setting silver in a stainless steel sink (wash in a plastic dishpan or place a dishtowel at the bottom of the sink)
- if wearing dishwash gloves use (cheap) plastic NOT latex
- after washing rinse in clean water then dry immediately with a lint-free soft cloth
- after drying thoroughly store silver in a Silvercloth bag
- salt / black corrosion on salt shakers may be removed by:
- first, never store salt in the shaker - remove salt, clean and dry the salt shaker
- to remove the corrosion, (and working in a well-ventilated area - pew!!!) pour some ammonia into a plastic container (like a Ziploc/Rubbermaid container), place the salt shaker in the container, then cover and let it soak for about ten minutes - remove from container - clean, dry and store.
- after first soak, if black corrosion spots still remain, place shaker back in container and let soak for another 10-20 minutes - if corrosion stil exists, you'll need to have the shaker professionaly restored
Prevention is the best:
- it's best to WASH the silver on a regular basis with a NON-lemon based dishsoap (try using Dawn), rather than a 1x per year heavy duty polishing, as polish agents are an abrasive
- tarnish is easiest to remove when it's a yellowish tint, and becomes increasingly harder to remove as it turns to a light brown color, and eventually turns to a black color
- early tarnish (the yellow tint) is more easily detectable if the silver is placed up against a white piece of paper -- the yellow tint will show up
- try cleaning several times per year with either Windex (with vinegar), or try a hand sanitizer such as Purell, on a soft cotton cloth
- turn or replace the cloth often (the tarnish itselft (black stuff on the cloth) can be abrasive)
- dry thoroughly with a dry cotton cloth
- immediately place in tarnish preventing silvercloth
Polishing:
- silver cleaning brands to try:
... least abrasive: 3M's Tarni-Shield Silver Polish, Blitz Silver Care Polish, Twinkle Silver Polish, and Weiman Silver Polish
... more abrasive: Goddard’s Long Shine Silver Polish, Goddard’s Silver Foam, Hagerty's, Wright's Anti-Tarnish Silver Polish, or Wright’s Silver Cream.
- silver products that provide tarnish proTECTion:
... Blitz, Goddard’s Long Shine, Tarni-Shield, Twinkle, Wright’s Anti-Tarnish, and Weiman.
- never use toothpaste – much too abrasive
- never use chemical dips such as Tarn-X - leave that to the professionals (too caustic)
Two different polishing applications found online (anyone know the correct one?) --
- apply polish gently in small circular motion (via cotton cloth or Q-tips for hard to reach)
- apply polish gently in a straight, back and forth motion (via cotton cloth or Q-tips for hard to reach)
- use a soft lint-free cotton cloth (not polyester / synthetic - can cause minUTE scratches)
- this should be obvious, but never use scouring pads or steel wool on silver
- if the silver polish is dryish/looks chunky, throw it out and buy new polish
- or if the product is dried-out, replace it with new product
- rinse the silver item first, to remove any dust or dirt particles, which can cause scratches
- don't overpolish! just because the cloth continues to blacken - just polish to the point that it's shiny
- clean / polish the inside of tea/coffee pot spouts with a Q-tip saturated with a silver cleaning polish (such as Wrights), or if the opening is large enough, try using a sponge and a slender wooden dowel dipped in the cleaner - then rinse thoroughly
- if there are still stains in the spout/inside, try cleaning the inside via the effervescing action of a denture tablet (use 1 tablet per 2 cups warm water - may need about 4 tablets/8 cups water to reach up to the tip of the spout - let stand and "bubble" for 10 minutes or so - then rinse out thoroughly - the denture tablet / effervescent action may be enough to loosen stains - you can then try cleaning again with the Wrights polishing method)
* NOTE!
- if after polishing you see a purple stain, do not continue to polish! This is actualy what is called "firestain" (oxidized copper) - found on most pre-colonial through early twentieth century silver pieces, and shows up after many years of polishing down past the super thin layer of silver to the bare metal / copper - at this point, you need to have the piece restored by a restoration silversmith
Displaying:
- when open display of silver is desired, try applying a micro-crystalline wax such as Renaissance
- or try placing the silver on anti-tarnish paper such as 3M Anti-Tarnish Strips, which can guard (although not completely protect) against tarnish by absorbing much of the airborne gases (the strips contain charcoal)
- or you could try silica gel (in an airtight display case) which absorbs excess humidity, thereby helping to significantly reduce tarnishing (reactivate saturated silica gel by re-drying in an oven)
Storing:
- never store salt in the salt shaker - too caustic - remove the salt and thoroughly clean the salt shaker before storing
- never use newspaper (can discolor), cardboard boxes (can release tarnish producing acids), or plastic wrap (emits tarnishing gases)
- store silver in a low humidity area and/or use products that absorb moisture
- never use rubber bands to hold silverware
- after silver is cleaned and polished, store them - completely enclosed - in bags specifically made for silver ("silvercloth")
Some notes on silvercloth:
- some brands to try: Pacific Silvercloth, Kenized SilverShield flannel
- silvercloth works by attracting the tarnish gases (sulfide/dioxide) to the cloth (via tiny particles of embedded silver) before the gases reach the inside of the bag where your silver is stored
- never wash silvercloth (you'll end up "washing out" it's ability to prevent tarnish)
- silvercloth may discolor (the tarnish/gas is gathering on the silvercloth), but it's still fine to use as long as there are no holes (letting in the gases)
Removing Wax From Candle Holders
- use only dripless candles to reduce cleaning frustration
- place the candle holder in the freezer, then using your fingernail carefully peel off the wax.
- remove leftover residue with silver polish or try using some isopropyl alcohol (91%) on a cotton ball
References:
Evaluation of Silver—Cleaning Products" by Lyndsie S. Selwyn and Charles G. Costain, Journal of the International Institute for Conservation—Canadian Group, volume 16, 1991, pp. 3-16.
Historical Silver: Storage, Display and Tarnish Removal" by Lyndsie S. Selwyn, Journal of the International Institute for Conservation—Canadian Group, volume 15, 1990, pp. 12-22.
Jeffery Herman, Silver Restoration & Conservation at http://www.hermansilver.com/care.htm
Silver-Care and Tarnish Removal," CCI Notes No. 9/7 (Ottawa: Canadian Conservation Institute, 1993)
Tarnish causing accelerants:
- fabrics containing wool or felt
- foods containing citrus, eggs, mayonaise (has eggs as an ingredient), or onions
- high humidity levels
- latex gloves
- oil on fingers
- paints containing oil (latex paint is ok-ish, just make sure the item is painted (and dried) at least 4 months prior to silver storage)
- petroleum based storage items, including items such as carpet padding
- rubber bands
cleaning / polishing for both silver and silver-plate
NOTE: never over clean or over polish silver-plate - else you risk "cleaning" silver-plate down to bare metal, at which point it will have to be restored by a restoration specialist
Cleaning:
- never wash any silver article in the dishwasher
- never wash any silver article with dish soap containing lemon
- before washing silver remove loose dust (can scratch silver) with a soft clean cotton cloth
- hand-wash (remember: never dishwasher) silver with warm water and a gentle lemon-free, phosphate-free dish soap, such as Dawn
- avoid contact with other metals that can scratch such as setting silver in a stainless steel sink (wash in a plastic dishpan or place a dishtowel at the bottom of the sink)
- if wearing dishwash gloves use (cheap) plastic NOT latex
- after washing rinse in clean water then dry immediately with a lint-free soft cloth
- after drying thoroughly store silver in a Silvercloth bag
- salt / black corrosion on salt shakers may be removed by:
- first, never store salt in the shaker - remove salt, clean and dry the salt shaker
- to remove the corrosion, (and working in a well-ventilated area - pew!!!) pour some ammonia into a plastic container (like a Ziploc/Rubbermaid container), place the salt shaker in the container, then cover and let it soak for about ten minutes - remove from container - clean, dry and store.
- after first soak, if black corrosion spots still remain, place shaker back in container and let soak for another 10-20 minutes - if corrosion stil exists, you'll need to have the shaker professionaly restored
Prevention is the best:
- it's best to WASH the silver on a regular basis with a NON-lemon based dishsoap (try using Dawn), rather than a 1x per year heavy duty polishing, as polish agents are an abrasive
- tarnish is easiest to remove when it's a yellowish tint, and becomes increasingly harder to remove as it turns to a light brown color, and eventually turns to a black color
- early tarnish (the yellow tint) is more easily detectable if the silver is placed up against a white piece of paper -- the yellow tint will show up
- try cleaning several times per year with either Windex (with vinegar), or try a hand sanitizer such as Purell, on a soft cotton cloth
- turn or replace the cloth often (the tarnish itselft (black stuff on the cloth) can be abrasive)
- dry thoroughly with a dry cotton cloth
- immediately place in tarnish preventing silvercloth
Polishing:
- silver cleaning brands to try:
... least abrasive: 3M's Tarni-Shield Silver Polish, Blitz Silver Care Polish, Twinkle Silver Polish, and Weiman Silver Polish
... more abrasive: Goddard’s Long Shine Silver Polish, Goddard’s Silver Foam, Hagerty's, Wright's Anti-Tarnish Silver Polish, or Wright’s Silver Cream.
- silver products that provide tarnish proTECTion:
... Blitz, Goddard’s Long Shine, Tarni-Shield, Twinkle, Wright’s Anti-Tarnish, and Weiman.
- never use toothpaste – much too abrasive
- never use chemical dips such as Tarn-X - leave that to the professionals (too caustic)
Two different polishing applications found online (anyone know the correct one?) --
- apply polish gently in small circular motion (via cotton cloth or Q-tips for hard to reach)
- apply polish gently in a straight, back and forth motion (via cotton cloth or Q-tips for hard to reach)
- use a soft lint-free cotton cloth (not polyester / synthetic - can cause minUTE scratches)
- this should be obvious, but never use scouring pads or steel wool on silver
- if the silver polish is dryish/looks chunky, throw it out and buy new polish
- or if the product is dried-out, replace it with new product
- rinse the silver item first, to remove any dust or dirt particles, which can cause scratches
- don't overpolish! just because the cloth continues to blacken - just polish to the point that it's shiny
- clean / polish the inside of tea/coffee pot spouts with a Q-tip saturated with a silver cleaning polish (such as Wrights), or if the opening is large enough, try using a sponge and a slender wooden dowel dipped in the cleaner - then rinse thoroughly
- if there are still stains in the spout/inside, try cleaning the inside via the effervescing action of a denture tablet (use 1 tablet per 2 cups warm water - may need about 4 tablets/8 cups water to reach up to the tip of the spout - let stand and "bubble" for 10 minutes or so - then rinse out thoroughly - the denture tablet / effervescent action may be enough to loosen stains - you can then try cleaning again with the Wrights polishing method)
* NOTE!
- if after polishing you see a purple stain, do not continue to polish! This is actualy what is called "firestain" (oxidized copper) - found on most pre-colonial through early twentieth century silver pieces, and shows up after many years of polishing down past the super thin layer of silver to the bare metal / copper - at this point, you need to have the piece restored by a restoration silversmith
Displaying:
- when open display of silver is desired, try applying a micro-crystalline wax such as Renaissance
- or try placing the silver on anti-tarnish paper such as 3M Anti-Tarnish Strips, which can guard (although not completely protect) against tarnish by absorbing much of the airborne gases (the strips contain charcoal)
- or you could try silica gel (in an airtight display case) which absorbs excess humidity, thereby helping to significantly reduce tarnishing (reactivate saturated silica gel by re-drying in an oven)
Storing:
- never store salt in the salt shaker - too caustic - remove the salt and thoroughly clean the salt shaker before storing
- never use newspaper (can discolor), cardboard boxes (can release tarnish producing acids), or plastic wrap (emits tarnishing gases)
- store silver in a low humidity area and/or use products that absorb moisture
- never use rubber bands to hold silverware
- after silver is cleaned and polished, store them - completely enclosed - in bags specifically made for silver ("silvercloth")
Some notes on silvercloth:
- some brands to try: Pacific Silvercloth, Kenized SilverShield flannel
- silvercloth works by attracting the tarnish gases (sulfide/dioxide) to the cloth (via tiny particles of embedded silver) before the gases reach the inside of the bag where your silver is stored
- never wash silvercloth (you'll end up "washing out" it's ability to prevent tarnish)
- silvercloth may discolor (the tarnish/gas is gathering on the silvercloth), but it's still fine to use as long as there are no holes (letting in the gases)
Removing Wax From Candle Holders
- use only dripless candles to reduce cleaning frustration
- place the candle holder in the freezer, then using your fingernail carefully peel off the wax.
- remove leftover residue with silver polish or try using some isopropyl alcohol (91%) on a cotton ball
References:
Evaluation of Silver—Cleaning Products" by Lyndsie S. Selwyn and Charles G. Costain, Journal of the International Institute for Conservation—Canadian Group, volume 16, 1991, pp. 3-16.
Historical Silver: Storage, Display and Tarnish Removal" by Lyndsie S. Selwyn, Journal of the International Institute for Conservation—Canadian Group, volume 15, 1990, pp. 12-22.
Jeffery Herman, Silver Restoration & Conservation at http://www.hermansilver.com/care.htm
Silver-Care and Tarnish Removal," CCI Notes No. 9/7 (Ottawa: Canadian Conservation Institute, 1993)
Saturday, November 26, 2011
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